Review of Wave Transformation and Cross-Shore Sediment Transport Processes in Surf Zones

Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Abstract


An attempt is made to assemble and synthesize recent publications which may contribute to the improvement of our quantitative capabilities for predicting shoreline changes due to the cross-shore sediment transport in the surf and swash zones on beaches. This review is essentially limited to the cross-shore hydrodynamics of incident wind waves and surf beat motions as well as the cross-shore sediment transport and resulting beach profile evolution.


Keywords


Wave breaking; surf; swash; sediment transport; erosion; beaches

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