Re-examination of Breaker-Type Classification on Uniformly Inclined Laboratory Beaches

Sei-ichi Okazaki, Tsuguo Sunamura

Abstract


Results of 150 runs of a wave-flume experiment using sloping bottoms with various gradients ranging from 1/20 to 1/0.5 indicated that the demarcation of breaker types can be described by the equation, Ho/Lo = N (tan β)n, where Ho/Lo is the deep-water wave steepness, β is the slope angle, and N and n are coefficients: N = 2.4 and n = 1.8 are given for the boundary between spilling and plunging breakers: N = 0.19 and n = 2.5 for plunging-collapsing boundary; and N = 0.074 and n = 2.4 for collapsing-surging boundary. The surf similarity parameter, ξ0 was found to represent these three boundaries: they were given by ξ0 = 0.5, 2.5, and 3.7, respectively.

 


Keywords


Surf similarity parameter; breaker; wave-tank experiment

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