Discussion of: Skyum et al., 1996. Hyperbolic Distributed Wind, Sea Level and Wave Data, Journal of Coastal Research, 12(4), 883-889

A.W. Sam Smith

Abstract


We found this paper to be fascinating stuff and very thought-provoking, and in our experience very original. We have read the paper over and over again, but still we find their data and conclusions somewhat puzzling, at least in some respects. For example, we were surprised that the authors' that: "it is well known that wave induced forces ... arise from pressure, velocities and accelerations, all of which are proportional to wave height and depend on the wave period." As we understand it, wave force, or power, is proportional to H2 X T2 and not Hand T alone, and wave pressure is proportional to V2, and not just V. However, this we think, is really an irrelevant detail and only a casual statement as compared with the authors' more serious interest in the predictive problems of addressing joint distributions, for example of wave height and period, but also addressing other coastal parameters such as coastal wind speed and water levels


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